There’s nowhere quite like the Dolomites. Towering columns of orange-grey and jagged, ochre pinnacles stretch impossibly into the misty clouds, where the last remnants of snow sparkle deep in the crevicies. The still waters of Alpine lakes reflect the spruce trees, while dwarf pine and azalea line the stony paths.
It’s been a few years since I spent time in this gorgeous region and I was well due a visit. It was good to be back, and to see that not so much has changed in my absence. There were rather more visitors around than I remember for September, but the Dolomites seem to swallow the excess effortlessly. A new initiative which sees free bus passes for those staying in hotels or guesthouses helps to limit the number of cars on the road, and eases parking at the most popular hot-spots. The buses are frequent, reliable and altogether a complete boon for getting around to the start of walks or, indeed, painting locations. A few new ski-lifts have popped up in various places, too; although they are not always the most attractive of constructions they are very handy for whisking us swiftly and easily to dizzying heights from where the views are unsurpassed, leaving us energy for the important activities, like painting!
After visiting and revisiting all the areas I could cram into a short week, I have now completely overhauled the Dolomites holidays, and have amalgamated the two existing itineraries into one, longer one.
Alta Badia, and Corvara especially, is not a cheap region to visit, nor a particularly straightforward one to reach, so it makes sense to stay longer than a week once you are here. In addition, I have now included all travel from – and back to – Verona, rather than expecting you to find your own way here and risk you getting lost along the way!
You can fly direct to Verona from many European airports or, alternatively, to Venice Marco Polo or Treviso, with easy rail transfers from there. You could even come overland from Austria, Switzerland or France, if you have the time and stamina for a long train journey. Once we meet in Verona, though, you can relax and enjoy the wonders unfolding outside the window, and know that you will be deposited safely back again in time for your flight – or train – home.
I have reconsidered some of the walking involved in the itineraries, too, and had a human guinea-pig with me to confirm whether a particular walk or track was suitable for anyone other than a mountain goat. Some short, steep sections are unavoidable, but I have made the longer walks optional, so while basic fitness is definitely required, you don’t need to be a mountaineer. Those who are dying to experience the delights of Dolomite hiking, however, will not leave disappointed.
The new itinerary combines the best of ‘Heads in the Clouds’ and ‘Fields of Gold’, the previous itineraries, and has been given a new name: Enrosadira. This is the word the locals give the phenomenon at sunrise and sunset when the minerals in the rock turn a special shade of pink in the low sunlight. Also known as Alpenglow, it’s really something to behold.
Enrosadira will debut in late June 2026. I am sure you won’t want to miss it!
